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Click here to read all about Corcreggan Mill's Pre-Celtic past...
Corcreggan Mill,
Dunfanaghy,
Co.Donegal.
Tel. +353 (0)74 9136409

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Registered with Failte Ireland
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The Dunfanaghy area is a walker's dream-come-true. There is a wide range of accessible scenery from beautiful, remote sandy beaches to 200m (600') sea cliffs, a forest park and an abundance of quiet country lanes.

In 2010, with the co-operation of the land-owners, Failte Ireland, Donegal County Douncil and Donegal Local Development Company, we are establishing the first Coastal Loop Walk in this part of Donegal. The 10km My Swynes Gun Walk, on the lower slopes of Horn Head, marks the culmination of 10 years work. Hopefully it is only the fore-runner to a much larger loop walk of the full extent of Horn Head, including the magnificent sea cliffs at the north point.

Concurrent with this will be the updating and reprinting of the Walk Guide which is attached in draft form below.

 

 

 

                                Draft Document

             DUNFANAGHY

                        Walk Guide

                            Including

       Portnablagh, Marble Hill and Ards

 

         Rambles and Ramblings of a Blow In

 

                        By Comdt Brendan M. Rohan (retd)

                                      Dedication

This second edition of the Dunfanaghy Walk Guide is dedicated to the memory of two dearly missed friends and mentors. Ryan Arnold was an inspiration, a constant challenge and a true friend. We still feel his presence, we still see his handiwork, and every now and then we believe we hear his playful chuckle and his firm foot-step. Michael J (Louis) Rohan, an old-style Republican, preferred to be known as ‘Mick’ or ‘Chiarriach mallaithe‘ (a damned Kerryman). Despite our disputes he was a relentless supporter of my ventures and adventures. He still stands firmly behind my right shoulder, whispering advice and encouragement.

                              First written compiled and edited in 2000

                                                           by

                                     Comdt Brendan M. Rohan (retd)

 

 

                                          Jointly published in 2009

                                                            by

                              Arnold’s Hotel (www.arnoldshotel.com)

                                                           and

                         Corcreggan Mill Hostel (www.corcreggan.com)

 

 

“After all these years it is hard to believe that I find here a part of Ireland more beautiful than Kerry” (Michael J. Rohan).This is what my father said very soon after coming to stay with me in 1990. High praise indeed from a native of Killarney and whose ancestors hail from Brandon on the Dingle Peninsula. He loved being here so much that he chose Dunfanaghy as his and my Mother’s final resting place.

 

Preamble

‘Blow In’ is a derogatory term used as a put-down to describe anyone whose family has not lived in any particular parish since ‘Auld God’s Time’. If you find yourself being referred to as a ‘blow-in’, don’t worry too much about it, you are in good company. The Celts, the Vikings, the Danes, the Normans, the English and various generations of Gallowglass, Planter, Tourist and Non-national have settled here throughout the millennia. To my mind the only people that can claim not to be a ‘blow in’ would have to be direct descendents of the Goddess Danu. I myself can justifiably claim to be a true ‘blow-in’ since I was originally blown in to this area during a south-westerly gale while sailing ‘round Ireland in 1988. In any case my Breton ancestors only made landfall on the Dingle peninsula about 450 years ago.

The first edition of this guide, although popular, was written rather quickly in response to a request (commonly understood by locals to mean, An Order!) from Ann Sweeney, whose inspiration I neglected to acknowledge at that time. I was also unaware that Arnolds Hotel had its own fine production for many years. In 2007, inspired by the fruits of the peace process in Northern Ireland, the new spirit of inclusiveness that exists throughout the island of Ireland and not least by the re-launch of our local Sheephaven Bay Tourism Association, I undertook to re-write the Walk Guide.

I also undertook a bold initiative and got a favourable reply. I asked one of the walk guide writers from across the Bay, (Kevin Ward, writer of the Rosguill/Downings Walk Guide) if he would consider jointly devising a common banner with me for the cover of both our local guides in the hope that the theme would be adopted by the writers of the other walk guides from around Sheephaven Bay. Derek Arnold of Arnolds Hotel offered to join with me in this new publication. 

The banner "Sheephaven Bay" on the front cover is to show our commitment to a wider community association and a stronger unified product. The back cover shows the range of booklets available linking the neighbourhoods around The Bay. There are no borders here, just subtle changes of complimentary character and scenery.

Introduction  

The Dunfanaghy, Portnablagh and Marble Hill area has managed to preserve its special character, and the majority of its architectural, archaeological and scenic beauty, and this, combined with a varied and unique array of natural and purpose-built amenities, has contributed to the popularity of the area. 

Dunfanaghy is one of the best-known scenic holiday destinations on the north-west coast of Donegal situated on the southern shore of a shallow sandy inlet on the western side of Sheephaven (originally called Ship Haven) Bay and it is sheltered by the magnificent bulk of Horn Head to the north.

Portnablagh is centred on a lovely harbour, pier and beach on the western side of Breaghy Head. Its name translates as port of the buttermilk and if you wonder why, just visit that corner of the Bay when a strong north-westerly wind is heaping up massive waves which crash onto the rocks causing the milky surf to gather near the harbour.

Marble Hill is on the eastern side of Breaghy Head. This headland and its beautiful sheltered Marble Hill beach was a favourite holiday destination of early 20th century Irish writers, artists, poets, and revolutionaries such as WB Yeats, George Russel (AE) and Padraig Pearse, to name but three, and its popularity continues to this day.

History

History can inform and entertain us or it can bind and blind us. “The price of freedom is eternal vigilance”.

Dunfanaghy is the Anglicisation of Dun Fionnachaidh (which translates as Fort of Fionnachaidh, or Fort of the Fair Field). In Celtic mythology, Sidhe Fionnachaidh was the home of the faery king Lir, God of the Sea, whose four children were turned into swans. I like to fancy that the perfectly conical Cnoc-a-sidhe (meaning fairy hill) atop Horn Head might have been Lir's home. After all, the surrounding area is rich in Celtic and pre-Celtic folklore, particularly of the Tuatha de Dannan, (meaning people of the Goddess Danu, after whom the River Danube is also called). Tory Island was the home of Balor of the Evil Eye (the Celtic Cyclops), Dunlewy was associated with Lugh, the Sun God, and Rosgoill is named after that fierce Celtic warrior Goll Mac Morna, who lost an eye in the battle in which he killed Fionn's father Cumhaill. Goll then became devoted friend and deputy to Fionn Mac Cumhaill, leader of the legendary Fianna (The Celtic Special Forces!). The hollow in which Corcreggan Mill is situated is said to be a pre-Celtic ritual site dedicated to the goddess Danu, and it has been described by the renowned Slovenian expert, Marko Pogacnik as “the energy centre of the whole north-west of Ireland”. In evidence of all this it should be considered that there are 175 recorded archaeological sites within a five mile radius.

  The village was a thriving commercial centre up to the end of the 19th century, mainly due to the influence of the local landlords, the Stewarts of Ards. The provision of supplies to a Scottish fishing fleet that operated locally and used Dunfanaghy as their base also added to the prosperity of the area. This fishing fleet suffered a major disaster in 1818 when a north-westerly storm swamped many boats at their nets. Those who ran for shelter to Dunfanaghy were smashed to pieces as they tried to negotiate the sandbar to the north-east of the inlet. Only one of the 100 boats made a safe return. The crews of the others were all lost and most of their bodies were washed up in the harbour and along the beaches next morning. It is said that a 92 year-old Scottish woman who lost three sons and several grandsons in the disaster put a curse on the bay, “that it would never have fish again,” which was the case for years afterwards.

During the First World War, due to a shortage of animal bedding in the country, large quantities of the rush-like bent grass were harvested from the dunes to the west of the village. In 1917 a north-westerly storm lasting several days dislodged the sand in the dunes, which no longer had the Bent grass root system to hold it together. The sand gradually drifted across the middle of the inlet completely silting up the deep-water inlet and the little harbor, thus marking the end of Dunfanaghy as a commercial port.

Another effect of the 1917 storm was that the upper reaches of the tide into Rinclevan were now cut off. The former salt-marsh filled to overflowing with fresh water, coming particularly from the Mill Stream at Corcreggan, breached the sea-wall that protected low-lying fields under Figart ridge and reached past the little island to the roadside at Corcreggan Mill. As a result New Lake was formed which occupies twice the area of the original salt-marsh. This history gives rise to a very special eco-system at New Lake which has also become home to a great variety of wild duck, geese and swans, especially from October to April when many new species arrive from Greenland, Canada and Iceland. This Nature Reserve is now preserved under EU law as a Special Area for Conservation.

The division of Ireland in 1921 by an artificial border not only divided Ulster but also cut off Donegal from its natural hinterland. Unlike most of the Republic, Dunfanaghy and its surrounds have been predominantly Protestant for hundreds of years. It still retains vibrant Presbyterian and Church of Ireland communities and churches to this day. A local man once told me that on the foundation of the Irish Free State in 1921 Lord Edward Carson is reputed to have said, "I can take this Partition but it means we lose our Dunfanaghy". However, the village continues to enjoy the custom of generations of loyal Belfast holiday-makers who think of Dunfanaghy as their home-from-home. The village prides itself on its strong ecumenical spirit which can be witnessed at cross community activities and services organized at and by all three village churches. In recent years the tourism base has widened considerably, and we even get visitors from as far away as Sligo!  

On the south-western shore of New Lake, along the N.56, is Corcreggan Mill. The Mill was built in 1789 and it served the domestic and farm needs of a wide area and a diverse community, including the local islands. It became a meeting point for Catholic and Protestant, English and Gaelic speaker, who entertained each other with song, dance, music, poetry and storytelling as they waited half a day for their grain to be dried and milled, both for table and manger. It only ceased production around 1965 so its operation is still a vivid memory for many locals. About 1910 it featured in the only case to be defended by a holiday-maker and recently qualified barrister called Padraig Pearse, later to be the man who read the Proclamation of the Irish Republic at the GPO, Dublin, on Easter Sunday 1916. This fine piece of architectural heritage still has its water-wheel, machinery and riparian rights intact and hopefully, will be restored as a community Arts, Cultural and Environmental visitor centre, and become, once again, a focal point of the wider community.

 

Facilities

In and around the village there are excellent hotels, B&Bs, hostels, bars, restaurants, as well as craft, coffee and grocery shops. South-west of the village, Corcreggan Mill Hostel has budget and up-market tourist accommodation, residential workshop facilities, and camping. The Gallery, on the south side of the village, which was formerly the Fever Hospital, has a wide range of paintings, artist's materials, antiques and crafts for sale. Next door, the restored Workhouse has a permanent exhibition on the Great Famine, and a coffee shop. The Post Office and Garda Station are at the top of the main street. A little further down the street are two hairstylists and beauty salons, a Delicatessen with a good range of organic produce, a thrift shop, and a café where traditional Irish breakfasts and lunches can be had.

On the square there is an excellent coffee-shop and Pottery and directly opposite, a large grocery and small hardware. There are several excellent bars, but Mollys is surely one of the oldest and best preserved traditional Irish bars in Donegal. On the main street there is a well established craft shop offering a wide range of quality Irish goods, and some lovely little new shops which specialise in candles, soft goods, kitchenware and quilts. There is also a specialist water sports shop. Arnold's Hotel, near the end of the street, besides being a superb hotel and restaurant, provides information and arrangements for local golf, lake-fishing and horse-riding. Opposite Arnold’s is the Carrig Rua Hotel and bar, which like most of the bars in the village, provides variations in musical entertainment from Traditional to Jazz and R&B. If you should decide to stay longer, there are two Estate Agents in the village who will find you the house of your dreams, and a branch of Allied Irish Banks to keep your money in. On the eastern side of the village is a garage, filling station and grocery shop. A little further east is the Dunfanaghy Golf Links, through which the beautiful Killyhoey beach is accessible by road. Sea-angling and sight-seeing boat trips can be arranged at Portnablagh.

Scenery

To the north of the village is Horn Head, described by Robert Lloyd Praeger in his book The Way That I Went, as “perhaps the finest headland in Ireland.” It has many dramatic attractions, most spectacular of which are the200m (600ft) cliffs at the northern point. From here, looking northwards, can be seen the headlands of Melmore, Fanad and Malin (the most northerly point in Ireland) and on a fine day, Scotland. Horn Head is noted for a large variety of sea birds and is also a constant attraction for individuals and school groups examining some of its geological sites which are of world renown. Horn Head also offers wonderful panoramic views westward to Bloody Foreland (the north-western corner of Ireland), Inishbofin, Inisdooey, Inisbeg islands, the stark, remote and famous Tory Island, northeastward to the Rosguill Peninsula and Downings, eastwards to Ards Forest and Breaghy Head, southeastwards to Sessiagh Lake, Portnablagh Harbour, and southwards to Killyhoey Strand, New Lake and Tramore Beach. In the southern background can be seen the range of mountains from Muckish to Errigal (Donegal’s highest).

For each day of the week you can visit a distinctly different beautiful sandy beach (Tramore, Killyhoey, Portnablagh, Marble Hill, Ards Back Strand, Lucky Shell and Isabella’s Bay). Some are accessible by car, others only on foot or by boat. The area between Ballymore and Creeslough contains Ards Forest Park, which has a remarkably tranquil maze of woodland trails to be explored.

The whole area is a walker’s and rambler’s paradise. The following small selection of walks is mostly on quiet country lanes, public footpaths and beaches. The more adventurous might wish to explore the bed of the old Lough Swilly narrow-gauge railway line (still walk-able through spectacular scenery from Creeslough to Dunlewey). More accomplished walkers might wish to consider some of the hills, cliffs and mountain ridges that abound including a spur of the Ulster Way which ends at Falcarragh, for which walking there are mountaineering guides available.

And now … the rules

  1. Exercise great care near water and cliffs. Dress appropriately (strong shoes, hat and waterproof clothing). It is advisable to tell some responsible person your route, intentions and expected time of return and do carry your mobile phone (even if only for use in emergencies).

  1. If you find that my constant references to direction are annoying because you don’t have a compass, bring a wrist (or pocket) watch with hands. Point the hour hand at the sun. Divide the angle that the hour hand makes with 12 o’clock, and that imaginary line points to due south!

  1. Never cross private land without the owner's permission, and always obey the Country Code - leave gates as you find them, take your litter home, keep dogs under control, and do not light fires.

  1. Please, please let me know about any inaccuracies you may have spotted in your use of the booklet so that I can correct them for the next edition. Please, also excuse the romantic ramblings and odd political and historical slants of the ‘blow-in’ amateur writer of this guide.  

  1. Anyone found using this booklet in a car which is without a ‘Disabled’ sticker will be considered to be cheating and will be liable to a fine of one Irish measure of Middleton Whiskey, payable to the author at Arnolds Hotel.

  1. Above all, enjoy the experience.

Walk 1          

Dunfanaghy Village 

Start/finish point, Market Square.   1.5km (1 mile). Public footpath and road.

 Any journey undertaken with sacred intent is a pilgrimage” (from a book I read)

Most buildings in the village are of local stone and there are many examples of finely crafted cut stone. A number of smaller buildings and out-houses still retain their local Roshin-slate roofs. The Market House, an imposing building with cut stone arches, dominates the village square. The harbour and pier, which were in full time use up to 1917, are just behind the Market House. The foundations of an O'Boyle Castle can still be seen on a rocky outcrop to the right of the pier, behind “Bert’s Boatshed”.

There are two other significant stone buildings worth visiting. One is the old Fever Hospital which was built in 1844 and operated as such until 1922. It subsequently became a national school and in 1963 was bought by Alan and Maura Harley, who re-named it The Gallery. The Gallery sells paintings, art materials, craft-ware and antiques. The other, the Workhouse, was also built in 1844 to house 300 local victims of the Great Famine. Today it houses a permanent exhibition about the Famine and has a small Coffee-shop and Craft shop.

Close to the Work House is Holy Cross Roman Catholic Church built in 1896.  The original village Church was Catholic and located at Kill, where it had a wonderful panoramic view overlooking the bay. It is now a ruin and is known as Clondahorkey Old Church. It became a Protestant place of worship after the outlawing of Catholic services in Ireland in the mid 1600s. As a result, both Catholic and Protestant graveyards adjoin this ruined church.

Holy Trinity, Church of Ireland, on the Horn Head road, was built in 1873. It is a very pretty building, both inside and out, and has commemorative plaques to the Stuart family of Horn Head House. The Presbyterian Church, on the eastern approach to the village, was built in 1878 in Irish Romanesque style. It has a magnificent spire which is visible for miles around. Its granite facings shine white in the sun and are easily seen from across Sheephaven Bay. It is fronted by magnificent Corsican pines.

Dunfanaghy Market House         

(Line Drawing)

Map and route guide

(Map)

THE ROUTE

Start by visiting the Harbour and Pier and imagine the hundreds of fishing boats that replenished there down through the centuries. Enjoy the expansive views of Horn Head from Horn Head Bridge on the left (west), to the Little Horn, far right. From the pier-head look right (east) where you will see the foundations of an O’Boyle Castle which would have had a commanding view of the original deep-water bay. Return to Main Street, turn right, and walk west through the village, past the Garda (Police) Station, taking the second class road to the right to visit Holy Trinity Church on Horn Head road.

Return to the main road, turn right and continue on the right-hand footpath to visit the Workhouse and the Gallery. Walking towards the village again, cross the road to visit Holy Cross Church. Then take the small by-road to the right (east) through a small housing estate for about 150m. At the next major junction (Medical Centre in front of you), turn left and walk down Pound Street towards the Square.

Turn right and walk east through the village to visit the Presbyterian Church on the eastern approach road.

Walk 2

Dunfanaghy – Port Lake Corcreggan -- Dunfanaghy

Start/finish point, Market Square.  9km (5.5 miles), all on public road.

The first 5.5km (3.5miles) of this walk is along a quiet third-class road leading south from the village. Near the top of the first hill, to the left, can be seen the ruins of Clondahorkey Old Church and Sheephaven Bay beyond. To the right can be seen New Lake and the Atlantic ocean beyond. The area south of Port Lake is called Roshin and it is from here that a slate quarry catered for local needs for many years.

Don’t miss an opportunity to visit Port Lake which is just off the route, up a quiet lane. The jetty is a very peaceful site for a picnic or from where to take a boat trip to the Crannog. There is an abundance of wildlife if you are quiet, patient and observant. Ravens are common in this area but you are also likely to encounter Peregrine Falcons and Corncrakes, and of late, the Golden Eagle. The sluice gate here marks the beginning of the 2.5km (1.5mls) mill-stream which serves Corcreggan Mill.  There are fishing club boats at the jetty that can be hired (ask at Arnold’s Hotel).

Besides the Port Lake Crannog there are a number of ancient sites along this route. Between the Port Lake junction and the next (Corcreggan) junction, on the left, just past a newly built bungalow, about 50m from the road, straddling an earth bank, is a megalithic wedge tomb. About 400m further on, on the right, approximately 200m from the road (opposite an older two-storey house and barn which is on the left) can be seen a perfectly preserved round stone enclosure.

“Often, of a morning, I have stood against this gate,

And watched the little rabbits as they scurry to and fro,

And munching cow, who, mindless of my gaze,

Continue on as if I don’t exist, and will not see me go.

But I will go, and come, again, and be enriched,

And drink the milk of nature’s wondrous ways, …”

Approaching Corcreggan Mill there are wonderful views across the dunes to Tramore Strand and Tory Island and over New Lake to Horn Head. The large bushy area on the right, as you descend to the main road, is the old Mill Pond. As you look out at Tory, can you see the sleeping warrior in its shape? His curly head is the tor (cliff) on the right. Then as you progress to the left, see his forehead, eyes, nose, beard, the rest of his body, and his shield resting near his knees. Now look at it differently and see the witch. The tor is her chin. Progressing to the left you will see her lips, flattened crooked nose, eyes, forehead, and then her long pointed hat.

The last part of this walk is along the N56. There is no footpath and it can be a very busy road, so you might prefer to return to the village by the much quieter road you came down. However, this route offers excellent views over New Lake allowing you to clearly see the old sea-wall in the far right corner, which once protected the fields to its right from the encroaching tide. When this salt-marsh was cut off from the sea in 1917, the sea-wall was breached by the much larger body of fresh water that accumulated, and became New Lake. As you pass the car park on the left, observe that insignificant low sloping hillock just past it. It is a perfect circle when viewed from the air and is an ancient Cashel site.

Further on, at the next inlet of the lake, it is sometimes possible to see the boundary fences which separated the low lying fields which are now covered by water. The fields running down to the northern shore from Figart, to the left of the Mill Restaurant, are where the wild geese can be seen feeding from October to April. There are Barnacles, White-fronted, Grey Lag and Brent. A large variety of duck and swans also overwinter on New Lake. Mallard and Mute Swans remain throughout the summer and swans usually build nests in sight of the road in spring time, both at Corcreggan and Rinclevan.

Map and route guide

(Map)

ROUTE

With the front of the Market House at your back, walk south, up Pound Street, for about 100m. At the junction by the Medical Centre, continue on straight, (not half-right or right). At the next junction, at the top of the first hill, pass a road leading left towards the ruined church and continue on south. Three-quarters of a mile (1.5Km) further on take the road to the right. After a further three-quarters of a mile (1.5Km), coming downhill, there is a rough-tarred lane to the left (south) leading between high earth-banks. This lane leads through a farmyard to Port Lake jetty and car park.

Take the lane back to the third-class road again and turn left (south-west). After 2km (1.5miles), having spotted the wedge tomb and stone enclosure from the road, turn right (north-west) at the next junction towards Corcreggan Mill. After 1Km (.5mile) you will begin to see great views of Tory Island, New Lake and Horn Head. On reaching the main road turn right (east) for the last 3km (2Mls) to the village. Take great care on this sometimes-busy main road, or consider back-tracking the 6km (3.5mls).

Walk 3  

Tramore Beach (If you do no other walks, do this one!)

Start point/finish, Market Square.  7km (5.5miles). Road, grass path, beach, open hillside.

Walking the short distance from the village square to Horn Head Bridge you will note that this bridge has twelve arches but only two in use. Before reading on ask yourself why this is so? (It results from the silting up of the estuary in 1917). A visiting geologist once told me that Horn head was an island 10,000 years ago and that the ‘temporary facility’ of the sand dunes that now connect it to the mainland are already being eroded again. Listen for Corncrakes here in summer. A public footpath across the dunes leads to Tramore beach (Tra More means big strand) which is also known as Donegal’s nudist beach, (probable reason- no houses, no cars, and few people). This magnificent golden sandy beach, 2km (1.5miles) long, seldom has many people on it, even in summer. It is NOT SAFE for swimming due to strong undertows, unless going for a dip in the little rock pools in the northern corner.

“I’m mindful too that often I am watched,

By some old man, who marvels at my favourite stand,

And knows, as I know, the beauty of this place…..

This beauty that is, now, and can't be missed,

Lest we should pass along this road,

In poverty”.

 I do not advise anyone to venture onto Private Land without the owner’s permission. However, as a minimum read the Note below. To the north of a small hill, on the northern headland above the beach, can be found a Celtic stone circle, 30m in diameter, almost buried by sand. A little further north-west, right on the edge of the cliff, is ‘McSwyne’s Gun’, a sea cave and blow-hole with a depth of 30m, which causes seawater to erupt 30m into the air with a thunderous roar in north-westerly gales.  Ask yourself how so many smooth round stones found their way up to this height above sea level… and stay lucky.

As you take in this great view of Tory, you might wonder about the name and whether it might have any connection to a political party on a much larger island, which lies to the East of Ireland. Tory takes its name from the Tors (cliffs) at its north point. However, hundreds of years ago there were wreckers and pirates on Tory. They became so notorious (or should that be no-Tory-ous) that the word used in old dictionaries to describe outlaws, pirates and raparees, was ‘tories’. The story goes, that at some point in the British Conservative Party’s history, a small group dissented and broke away, and as a result they were referred to as tories to the main party. They later became the main party, but the nick-name stuck.     

If time allows on the return, there is a well-preserved Sous-terrain, about 22m long, with several sub-chambers. It is not easy to find but it is on high ground near a rocky outcrop, about 400m north of the footpath, about half-way between Tramore beach and Horn Head Bridge. There is much speculation about the original purpose of sous-terrains. Some say that they were for storage, others say for hiding in, and others still, that sous-terains like all the ancient sites had a ritual or an initiatory purpose. I like to suggest to visitors that they might consider the short sub-terranian journey as a ‘re-birthing’ exercise, so that they can leave behind forever whatever burden they might wish to shed. It is amazing what an effect this has on some people.

Map and route guide

(Map)

ROUTE

Please read note at the end.

Walk for 1km (.5miles) out the Horn Head road, passing the Garda (Police) Station and Holy Trinity Church, to Horn Head Bridge. At the far end of the bridge, on the left, there is a stile and gate which gives access onto an open field, which leads to another stile at the far corner of the wood. Here, a wide grassy footpath, which divides and re-joins, will lead you on a pleasant walk through the dunes for about 2.5km (1.5mls), to Tramore, (The higher path offers better views).

Walking the length of the beach, both ways, adds a further 5km (3mls). To visit the stone circle and Mc Swyne’s Gun (also add 5km), climb the rocks and sand off the beach if tide is out, or go behind the dunes again, along the sea-ward side of the fence, round a high dune, traveling due west along the cliff, towards the small hill overlooking the beach. Passing through the post and wire fence/gate, you will be on Private Land. Be sure to close this fence/gate properly (Do Not climb on, or damage the wire fence!). As the hill is reached, the stone circle will be seen on a flat spot to the right (north-east) of the hilltop.

From the stone circle look north-west and walk to a cairn of stones near the edge of the rock. Continue on the same line and you will find McSwyne’s Gun near the edge of the rocky cliff, but TAKE GREAT CARE! In calm, dry weather it is possible to look down through the blow-hole, about 30m, to the sea below. Return to horn Head Bridge by the same route. Good luck finding the Sous-terrain.

Note!

Please be aware that although the majority of this walk is on a public right of way over public lands, that the approach to where the stone circle is located and beyond to McSwyne’s Gun, is privately owned land. In the past, through the generosity of the landowners, it has been possible to pass without restriction, but this is not a public right and due respect and gratitude should be borne in mind towards the property and its owners.

Walk 4

Horn Head

Start/finish point, Horn Head Bridge.    13.5km (8.5 miles), Road.

There is a shelter/picnic area at the viewing point at the Horn Head Sea-cliffs, which is about half-way, and can afford a useful stop for the light snack you might bring along. 500m north of Horn Head Bridge, is where, in 1700, Captain Charles Stuart, of Bonnie Prince Charlie’s royal line, built Horn Head House. Sadly, this fine house is now a ruin, albeit, in a lovely parkland setting. A little further along the shore the road divides. The clock-wise circuit is recommended, so turn to the left, walking up a fairly steep hill, taking a cork-screw route over a nice bridge, and onwards, and upwards. Take the time to stop regularly, to smell the flowers and take in the scenery.

At the t-junction, at the top of this first hill, the climb is gentle now, passing fields and forestry with hand-built stone walls. Just before the road junction where Crockashee, the completely conical Fairy Hill is, there is a ruined cottage on the right with a very wind-swept tree which is reaching into the ruin, giving some idea of the wind strength up here. Straight ahead, to the right of Crockashee, can be seen the square, concrete, look-out post, one of thousands round our coast, used during World War Two to monitor Allied shipping and German U-boat activity. The ruined signal tower further out on the point dates from the 17th century, and in three megalithic tombs in this area, were found gold ornaments now in the National Museum. The road out to the head is not included in our total distance, above, but you may wish to take it in.

“God invented alcohol to stop the Irish from taking over the world” (A quotation I found in the pub/hall which the islanders call “The Club”, at Tory Island in 1988).

Sea-views west to Bloody Foreland and to the islands of Inis Bo Finne, Inis Dooey and Inis Beg, and later on to Tory, get better as you proceed towards the viewing point and picnic area at Faugher. Here, you have reached the highest point of the walk, and there are breathtaking views of Horn head’s 200m (600 ft) cliffs, and northeast to Melmore Head, on Mulroy Bay,  Fanad Head on Lough Swilly, and north to Malin Head (the most northerly point of Ireland), and on a clear day Islay and Jura on the west coast of Scotland.  In speaking of perspective, I am reminded of a friend from Malin who maintains that he lives in northern Ireland, whereas, he says, the people who say they live in Northern Ireland actually live in the south!

The road winds eastwards, downhill from here. As Sheephaven Bay opens up keep a lookout below, to where, on a rocky outcrop joined to the land by a natural, very narrow bridge, is a Promontory Fort. From the next viewing point there are clear views of Downings (and it’s Tramore beach), Ards Forest Park, Marble Hill, Breaghy Head, Portnablagh Harbour with Sessiagh Lake just behind. In the background to the south, is the mountain range from Muckish to Errigal.

 It is all downhill from here. As you descend Muntermellan, new views of Killyhoey beach and Dunfanaghy, harbour and inlet open up, with the Derryreel Hills behind. You can now see past the village, over New Lake to Corcreggan Mill at the far shore, and out to Gweedore and the Rosses in the distance.

“…Below the hill the harbour wall appears,

 Across from it, the Mill,

Where golden corn did wait upon its turn to fall beneath the granite wheels,

Pushed on by Heaven’s tears…”

As you descend the last stretch towards sea-level, look right, to a col (saddle or depression between two small hills), above two giant white quartz rocks, to where a stone wall divides the hills. Just to the right of that wall there is a spectacular portal tomb. (Ask permission from the landowner if planning a visit). Follow along the road or the shore to Horn Head Bridge.

Map and route guide

(Map)

ROUTE

Begin by taking the Horn Head road past the Garda Station and Holy Trinity Church, across Horn Head Bridge and along the shore road to the first junction, about one and a quarter miles (2Km). Take the left fork, up-hill, for about half-a-mile (1Km) to a T-junction. Then turn right (north-east) and continue for about 1mile to the next junction. Crockashee (Faery Hill), a perfect conical hill is to your left, and past it, you can see a World War II look-out post on a little hill.

Continuing the circuit to the north-east, over the cattle grid, you will soon arrive at the first viewing point. From here it is mostly downhill to the next viewing point on the eastern side of the head. All downhill now, to the shore of the inlet, over Horn head Bridge and back to the village.

Walk 5

Killyhoey – Kill – Dunfanaghy

Start/finish point, Village Green.  5km (3miles). Beach and road

There is an access lane onto the strand, right in front of Arnolds Hotel, which leads onto Killyhoey Beach. During World War 2 an American bomber made a successful emergency landing on the beach. Without enough fuel for a fly-past or even a landing along the beach, the pilot had to come straight in off the sea to crash-land, in a very short space but on firm sand. Ireland being neutral during the war, the crew were ‘arrested’ and held ‘prisoner’ in the Portnablagh Hotel for a few days. Later, while being escorted along the border, they ‘escaped’ into Northern Ireland. German prisoners preferred to enjoy the hospitality of the State for a longer period and were ‘imprisoned’ in the Internment camp at the Curragh, Co. Kildare. Here, having given their word not to attempt escape they were even allowed to march out, without guards, once per week to go to the local cinema. One German prisoner did escape, but he was promptly returned by the German Government because he had broken his word.

“…and contemplate the grace and silence of some sailing ship,

That slips along beyond the land, and eases out the bay…”

This beach is safe for swimming and attracts quite a few people in summer due to easy road access and the car park. The route is via the car park, south through the Golf Links to the main road. First, turn left, and then take the next right, uphill, to the old pre-Reformation church of Clondahorkey and the famine graveyard. 17th century Clondahorkey Church fell into disuse in the mid-18th century. There is a Catholic and a Protestant graveyard either side of the church, and a small famine graveyard also contains the bodies of Scottish fishermen lost in the great disaster of 1818.

Map and route guide

(Map)

ROUTE

Enter onto the beach to the right of the Green in front of Arnold's Hotel. Follow the southern shore of the inlet, to the right (eastwards), around what used to be Catherine's Isle, now the point of the dunes, onto Killyhoey Beach proper. Rounding the point, there is the choice to exit immediately through the car park or to take a walk on the main beach first (not included in the total distance)?  Leaving the car park, walk the short distance, south, through the Golf Links to the main road. Cross the road, then turn left (east), and after about 500m, take a third-class road to the right (south), up hill, past Clondahorkey Old Church to the next t-junction. Turn right here to return to the village

Walk 6

Portnablagh - Breaghy - Marble Hill

Start/finish point, Portnablagh viewing point/car park. 7km (4.5miles), All on road

The name Portnablagh translates as harbour of the buttermilk. This is because of the foam caused by the huge waves which roll in here, in north-westerly gales. It is a very scenic spot with pier, beach, viewing point and car-park. Taking a clockwise circuit of Breaghy Head, around its relatively quiet 3rd class roads, the first part offers excellent views of Portnablagh Harbour, Killyhoey Beach and Horn Head. About half way along the route’s first leg, a large house can be seen on the left. This was Mullen’s Boarding House, famous in the early part of this century among such notables as Jack B.Yeats; Domhnall O’Buachalla; Stephen Scott, son of Captain Scott the famous explorer; Standish O’Grady and ‘The’ O’Rahilly. Captain Scott himself, and his wife, stayed here shortly before his ill-fated Polar expedition of 1912.

“…Turning up to windward, white sails are unfurled,

Halyards pulled and tightened, loose ends quickly curled.

Turning off the wind, sheets are hardened in.

Heeling, gently, to the breeze.

Shapely… long, and thin.

Reminds him of a woman,

He always dreams of one;

Dark skinned woman, hair bleached by the sun,

Long…and thin… and shapely,

A dream on which to dote,

But for now he must be satisfied by the spirit of his boat…”

The road turns southerly, downhill towards Marble Hill Strand. It was here that George Russell (AE) wrote in one of his books of a meeting he had with Pan, God of the Nature Kingdom, and where he introduced WB Yeats to the realm of fairies, devas and nature spirits, for which the latter is now surely better known. Both men frequently stayed at Marble Hill House, a fine Georgian mansion which is not open to the public. At that time the house was owned by Hugh Law MP, who later became TD for Donegal after the foundation of the state. Other notable visitors around that time were PH Pearse, William Orpen, Percy French, GK Chesterton and Hillaire Belloc.

On the way back to Portnablagh, along the N56, you will pass the “middle road” on which can be seen a roofless ruin called Faugher House. This was built by the O’Boyles as a “fortified house” in 1691, the time of the Plantation of Ulster, and taken from them after the 1641 rebellion.

Map and route guide

(Map)

ROUTE

Walk southeast along the N56 from Portnablagh, take the first road to the left, to travel north-east around the third-class road which circuits Breaghy Head, past Marble Hill strand and exits again onto the N56 near Faugher School. Turn right here and return northwest to Portnablagh again.

If time permits as you approach Portnablagh again, take the road to the left, opposite the road where you first turned towards Breaghy Head. This will bring you past a fine example of an old lime-kiln (now incorporated into a new house), Sessiagh Lake (with its crannog). At the bottom of the hill and turn right, on the N56, to return to Portnablagh.

Walk 7

Ballymore - Ards Forest Park

Start/finish point, Ballymore Church. 8km (5 miles), Road and footpath

Several shorter circuits of this walk can be made. It is possible to enter through the main

Gate of the Forest Park (fee charged for cars) and start from the car park down at the Back Strand. A detailed booklet on all the nature trails can be purchased (in summer) at the main gate.

My suggestion is to start this walk at Ballymore Church. St Johns (Church of Ireland) a very striking Georgian building was built in 1752. Beside it is a Primary School, and in the field beside the school, near the road, is a very a good example of an ancient Court Tomb.  Across the road is an unusual structure, called ‘the tunnel’. It was built in 1852 to allow the new mistress of Ards, Lady Isabella Tasca Stewart-Bam, to travel through her own estate, away from the prying eyes of the peasants, to attend Ballymore Church.

It is a substantial structure, sadly ‘modernised’ by the County Council in recent times by removal of the stone façade. There are also the remains of stables to the rear of the tunnel, and a specially built road which would have led all the way to Ards House, 5km (3.5miles) distant.

The Back Strand, a lovely beach and inlet just below the car park, also has a children’s playground. The present 1000-acre Forest Park was one half of the Stewart Demesne, and contains Sitka and Norway spruce, Douglas and Noble Fir, Scots and Corsican pine and larch. It is full of wildlife including an increasing herd of red deer.

Map and route guide

(Map)

ROUTE

Passing through the tunnel at Ballymore, follow the old, un-tarred road, first south, then east, then south again, 0.5 Km, (500yds) each leg, to the main forest road, which is tarred. Turn to the left to reach the car park after about 2km (1.25miles). From here there is a maze of nature trails which one can follow through the park, but which are not included in these calculations. Access the beautiful Back Strand via the car park.

Return, west to the main entrance along the tarred road, and then north, to

Ballymore Church along the N56, or back along the path through the tunnel if preferred.

Walk 8

Ards Friary

Start/Finish point, Capuchin Friary. 3km (2 miles), Footpath and road.

Firstly, drive to the car park at Ards Friary following the road sign “Capuchin Friary” from the N56 north of Creeslough. The church and friary were built in 1966 on the site of Ards House which the Capuchin Order had used since it took over the old manor house in 1930. This very peaceful place is set in mature woodland near the north-eastern tip of

Ards peninsula and has an interesting selection of exotic trees. It was to the small pier south of the friary that coal and other goods were delivered in the past. Silica sand which was mined on nearby Muckish Mountain was also exported from this pier.

There is a wonderful footpath immediately south of the friary which follows the shore among oak, beech and elm trees, passing Isabella’s Bay, a tranquil, sandy beach which is not safe for swimming due to strong currents. The path exits on to the point of Ards from where can be seen the starboard navigation buoy marking the entrance to Ards Estuary. From here it is possible to continue north, to another secluded sandy beach and return through the forest, back to the car park.

There is an excellent Coffee shop beside the Friary, where you can read about the Friars connection to Cappuccino, while sampling the result. The Friary has very few monks now, but they are still there, and besides their priestly duties they also provide a venue for secluded retreats and workshops in a unique setting.

On leaving the Friary car park by the one-way system, look due south across the estuary to where Doe Castle can be seen. This castle was a stronghold of the local McSwyne (Sweeney) Clan and was where, as a young boy, Red Hugh O'Donnell, Prince of Donegal, was sent to perfect his skills of warfare and poetry. During this time, in the mid 1500s, when his whereabouts was discovered by the English, a ship was dispatched to capture him. The ship was anchored in Sheephaven Bay while a raiding part was sent in rowing boats, past the site of the present Friary, up to Doe Castle. Some years later he escaped, and, together with Hugh O’Donnell, the Prince of Tyrone, rose in arms against the English Crown. Their ill-fated march to Kinsale, and subsequent defeat at that battle in 1603, lead to their exile from Ireland forever. On 15 Sept 1607 they departed from Rathmullan with an entourage of 99 souls. These events lead to the Plantation of Ulster. By coincidence, a cousin of mine, the late High Court Judge Dermot Kinlan (himself an O’Donnell on his mother’s side), discovered the whereabouts of Red Hugh’s grave in Valladolid, Spain in 2001. The castle has recently been restored by the OPW and opened to the public.

Map and route guide

(Map)

ROUTE

Just below the Friary, past the statue of St. Francis, there is a gate leading to the shore walk. The path follows the rocky shore to Isabella's Bay, across from which is a large strand which is also called Tramore and which stretches right to Downings, some 6km (3.75 miles) away. Follow the new headland path round to the north-west, or take a shorter route on the old path, skirting the wood, to a very private sandy beach under Binnagorm Point.

There is a forest track through the wood that leads from the centre of the beach.

Keeping left all the way will bring you back to the Friary, 1km (.5 miles) away.

OTHER WALKS

The above are just a small selection from an area abundant with opportunities for very satisfying and scenic walks. Many variations and deviations are possible. Just use a little imagination, a good map and do not be afraid to avail of local advice.

If considering the Horn Head cliff walk, or the Muckish to Errigal Mountain range, be aware that you are entering the realm of mountaineering where proper training and equipment is advisable. A common mistake is to assume that because the height is not so great that these mountains are easy. It is the rapid change in visibility, temperature and wind that contributes so greatly to disasters on our hills and cliffs.

Local Drives

All the local drives have been omitted from this edition but now appear in the Resource Office’s publication called Dunfanaghy Amenity Guide.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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